Do you want to see all of Greece in one village from the Age of Homer until today? Come to Epitalio, known as Thryon during the Mycenaean Age. Later, during the Greek War of Independence in 1821, as Agoulinitsa – named after the region’s exquisite wetlands – it heroically fought bloody battles against the Ottoman Turks. Through two world wars and post-war civil strife, victories continued for the picturesque Peloponnesian town that has been especially endowed by nature.

Built on the verdant slope of Dardiza where the 110km long Alfeios River forms its delta, it is part of the Natura 2000 network. The river flows to the coast where loggerhead turtles once laid their eggs in the golden sand. These days, however, all you’ll find are ramshackle huts, built illegally in just one summer’s night. In winter, waves reclaim the beach, getting their revenge. What’s left are images of…